We had been following the coast road for our entire trip, with the kids soaking up the sun and sea as we made our way up North, but after hearing about Cania Gorge from some fellow campers (hailed as one of Queensland's best kept secrets) it was time to head inland and see what all the fuss was about.
We knew the drive into the gorge was about 3 hours north west of Bundaberg, but after a longer than expected lunch stop over at Luke's old work friend's farm at Bucca, we didn't hit the road until around 3:30pm. This wouldn't have been a big drama, except for the small fact that we really didn't have too much of an idea of where the gorge was (except for what Google maps was telling us, but phone reception died about an hour into our journey). I may have swore once (or twice) when after driving through the last of the small country towns along the way, Monto, our thin road turned from tar to dirt, the sun began to set and on top of that, signs warning of unfenced cattle along the roadside started popping up everywhere!
I seriously questioned Luke as to whether it was too late to turn back, but our sense of adventure got the better of us (plus we were starting to get hungry!) so we pushed on, past the friendly locals who couldn't care less that our caravan (now containing three overtired and restless kids) was hurtling down the dirt road with a dust cloud streaming from behind.
But when we finally arrived at the Big 4 Cania Gorge Holiday Park, it was like seeing a mirage in the middle of a hot and desolate desert. Nestled in the middle of the Cania Gorge National Park, the place was absolutely packed with people spilling out of each site, walking with torches, crowding around fires, kids riding bikes on dusk, a big outdoor theatre set up laughing, music! The place was like a mini festival in the middle of absolutely nowhere!! Needless to say, that after checking in and remembering that QLD had a long weekend so most of the campers were enjoying the extra day off, we forgot the hairy drive and were just as excited as the swarms of kids walking around with untoasted marshmellows on their sticks!
So all chances of giving the kids an early dinner (of baked beans sandwiches after the day we'd had!) and getting them off to bed early was dashed - instead we joined the holiday makers and wandered the camping ground, breathing in the smell of burning firewood and looking up in awe at the clear, star-spotted sky, which looks 100 times more impressive when surrounded by bush in the country.
The next day, we got a better look at our home away from home for the next few nights and I must say, after over half the campers had cleared out and headed back to work, the place felt like it was all ours. With bush all around, the wildlife was abundant, with wallabies roaming freely about the place (and being chased by Bassie who thought he might be able to 'ride' one), so many birds that we actually lost count of the different types, the rare and beautiful Bettongs that came out at night and hopped right past you on the way to the toilet block and more. The kids were in their element and finally Luke and I felt like this was really 'camping'.
But real camping these days, also comes with plenty of added extras, and despite being in the middle of a Gorge and kilometres from anywhere, this Big 4 caravan park had one of the best water parks we had seen, tennis courts, jumping pillows, a make-shift golf course and some terrific organised activities like a damper and billy tea morning in the big tin shed for all the guests, outdoor movie nights under the stars and daily bird feedings on dusk.
We kept up the schooling on the road and I think anyone would agree that doing your year one reader with king parrots looking over your shoulder is pretty special. I've loved this time with the kids, where Bastian is happy to play with play dough and whatever else is lying about, while Arley does his readers and maths and other bits and pieces and Sage, never wanting to miss out, wants to do some 'schoolwork' as well. But sometimes trying to get Arley to jump off his bike for more than five minutes and concentrate is difficult and at Cania Gorge, even I found it hard to focus with the beauty all around us! We did have a special guest drop by and present the kids with 'merit' awards for trying so hard whilst on the road, which made them laugh - Welcome Principal Tonkin!
Just down the road from the Big 4 is Lake Cania, a man-made lake that sits on the banks of Three Moon Creek and is stocked with yellowbelly, silver perch and Australian Bass. A popular fishing spot with professional comps hosted here, the kids swam in the warm water and met the caretaker and his dog Ernie, who they wanted to smuggle into the back of our van and take home!
But the main reason people make the trek to this beautiful part of Queensland is for the gorge itself. A remnant of the Brigalow Belt natural region, the sandstone rock formations are impressive and there are a bunch of bush walks that showcase the caves, natural pools and changing landscape of the area. We took on a few of the shorter walks with the kids and visited the Dripping Rocks and The Overhang Rock. And just as the kids started piping up, "Are we there yet?" towards the end of our walk, a yellow bellied tree snake conveniently blocked the path ahead and provided much entertainment as we waiting for it to finally get a wriggle on and let us pass!
It's the little things that kids love though, and the joy of a load of firewood being delivered to our site, and the promise of our own bonfire just outside our door with a few marshmellows to roast, was the biggest drawcard to heading off the beaten track. And with a glass of red in hand, the kids snoring in their beds and looking up at the stars, Luke and I were just as glad that we hit the dirt roads and found this little gem as well.
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